TRY THIS: HOT AIR BALLOON BABY SHOWER INVITATIONS

Try This: Hot Air Balloon Baby Shower Invitations

 
Hot Air Balloon Invite
 

Try This: Hot Air Balloon cards 

Hot Air Balloon Invite

 

MATERIALS: Card Stock, Blank Cards, Craft Knife, Circle Punch, Craft Glue, Cute Fonts, Home Printer

Hot Air Balloon Invite

 

ONE: Begin by designing a simple invitation in your word processing program that measures about 1/4″ less all the way around than your blank cards.  For example, my blank cards were 4″ x 6″, so I designed an invitation 3.5″ x 5.5″.  You can accomplish this by manipulating your margins in page set-up. Print them out on card stock, and cut out using scissors or a craft knife.

For my fonts, I used Sail Away and Josefin Sans Std.

Hot Air Balloon Invite
TWO:  On the front of each blank card, either hand draw or print the basket for your hot air balloon (maybe some birds, too!).  I used this little graphic that I made up (right click on the image to save if you’d like to use it, too) and fed my cards through the printer. 

Hot Air Balloon Invite
Hot Air Balloon Invite
THREE: In the inside of each blank card, mark and cut a diagonal slot about a 1/2″ long in each of the four corners, and slip your invitations inside.

Hot Air Balloon Invite
FOUR: Use your circle punch to punch out a whole bunch of circles from your card stock.  You’ll need four for each card.  I did two in each color for each of my cards.

Hot Air Balloon Invite
FIVE: Fold each of the circles in half.  To get a clean fold, use the back of the craft knife to score a line down the middle.

Hot Air Balloon Invite

SIX: Glue four of the folded circles together without actually closing the sphere.  See that blue one and that yellow one on each side of my big finger?  Yeah, those are the ones you don’t want to glue together.

Hot Air Balloon Invite

 

SEVEN: Remember those edges you didn’t glue together in the last step?  Now put glue all over them, and affix it to the li’l basket on the front of your card.  You’re done!  I also took those cute fonts to the envelope by printing everyone’s names and addresses, too. 

Hot Air Balloon Invite

 

Hot Air Balloon Invite

Hot Air Balloon Invite
 
reblogged from : 

Embroidery

Embroidery is the handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as metal strips, pearlsbeadsquills, and sequins

I love Embroidery and think people can create such wonderful things using it. I’ve embellished a few tops in my time when i was super bored and wanted to take my mind off things!!

 ImageImage

 

^^^A waistcoat that was very plain and needed something to jazz it up! ^^^^

 

Here are some simple stitches to get you started, 

Split Stitch: The split stitch is great for everything. Outlines? Yep! Letters? You betcha! Fills? Heck, yea! It’s the perfect stitch to use on clothing or accessories or anything that’s going to get a lot of action since each stitch locks the stitch before it down. I like to use shorter stitches for outlines and letters because they give you more control on curves and such, and a longer stitch on fills so that I’m not stitching until the next Olympics.

  Start your split stitch by coming up through the middle of your first stitch, splitting it in half.

That’s why it’s called a split stitch!

  Make the rest of your stitches the same length as your first to get a nice, even line.
  Start your stitches in the middle of the stitch before. Use the end of the stitch two stitches before as a guide.

The back of your split stitch should look like the front of the back stitch. That’s how you know you’re doing it right!

Stem Stitch:  It  has a cool ropey look about it that makes it great for lettering. Like the split stitch, use shorter stitches when you’re working anything with curves.

  The first stitch of your stem stitch should be half the length of the rest of your stitches. Start your second stitch alongside your first stitch.
  Start each stitch at the end of the stitch two stitches before, so the start of the third stitch should be at the end of the first.

This stitch is great to work “from the front,” which means you can poke the needle through and out of the fabric without switching your hand from back to front. This makes stitching go much faster and makes the whole process easier on your hands.

  Make sure all your stitches start on the same side of your stitch line.

Just like with your split stitch, the back of your stem stitch should look like a back stitch.

Back Stitch: The back stitch is a great outline, especially if you want a homespun effect to your work. It’s also great when using a few strands of floss to get thin, almost pen-and-ink-style line for backgrounds and fills. I’ve used it several times when doing black and white embroidery to add lowlights and textures. As a fill, it makes for great texture. Make the stitches in a bricklike fashion, and you’ve got a pretty long/short style fill (I used to call this a running stitch until I was corrected by a lovely commenter, normasews.  A running stitch actually looks like a broken line! Thanks normasews!)

  Start your back stitch as you would any other line stitch. Start the second stitch on the other side of your stitch.

Since you can’t start the second stitch at the end of the first without pulling the first stitch out, you need to start the stitch on the away side of the stitch.

  Start the third stitch at the end of the second stitch.

The back stitch line should look like a perforated line in paper.

  Make sure all your stitches are the same length.

The back of the back stitch will not look like the back stitch! It should look like a running stitch when done correctly.

Chain Stitch: I love the chain stitch as much as I love the stem stitch. Ask me which one I love better and I couldn’t choose—it’d be like picking a favorite child. Don’t make me do it! Big and loopy, it makes a great accent stitch, while tighter it makes a great old-timey-looking outline for patterns and letters. I’ve also used it as a fill and find that the openness of the chain makes for great texture when stitching hair or fur.

  The first stitch of your chain stitch is a loop. It should start and stop in the same place. Start the second stitch at the top of the loop.
  All your loop stitches will be made in the same way. Use your free hand to add a bit of tension to the previous loop.

This is another great stitch to work from the front and goes like rockets once you get it down.

  The bigger your loops, the more chainlike your stitches will look.

Like the split stitch and the stem stitch before it, the back of the chain stitch will also look like our friend the back stitch.

Blanket Stitch: The blanket stitch is my go-to joining stitch. If you look in my shop, you will see it over and over and over. I love the old world of this stitch and like to use it to add a handcrafted look to mundane, everyday items. This stitch looks hard, but it’s so very easy once you get it down.  The stitch is worked right to left, like the pictures below.  The pictures may look strange or flipped but that’s just because I was stitching upside down for the camera, the stitches are still going the right direction.

 

The first stitch of the blanket stitch is a three-point stitch. Starting on the bottom fabric, insert your needle diagonally into the top fabric. Bring the needle down in line with the first stitch over your floss.

 

  The second stitch starts on the top fabric. Bring your needle down into the bottom fabric as you did on the first stitch.

This stitch is also great to join edges or as a decorative border on blankets, quilts, home accessories, and clothing.

  This stitch gets its name because it’s often used to edge blankets. The more even your stitches are, the more polished your finished work will look.

If you’re using the blanket stitch on an edge, the front and back should look the same. If you’re using it to join two flat pieces, then the back will look like evenly spaced vertical lines.

Now stop worrying and start stitching! There are tons of patterns out there from Jenny Hartto vintage-looking Aunt Martha to Etsy finds.

Happy stitching!http://www.craftstylish.com

Diy Horses!!

Adorable stick horses- such a great gift ideaMany of us can remember back to a time in our life when we had a stick horse laying around. They are classic toys and classic for a reason! To this day, stick horses are great toy to spark a child’s imagination! DIY Stick Horse Steps1. Supplies: fabric, stuffing, yarn, long wooden dowels, styrofoam balls, felt. 2. Carve out a portion of the styrofoam ball and glue the stick into the ball. 3. Cut out your horse head from your fabric. Cut yarn (about 30 inches) and double over. 4. Sew around the perimeter of the horse head, adding the yarn in as you go. Make sure to leave the bottom or “neck” open. This is where you will add your stuffing.  5. Turn the horse head inside out and begin stuffing.  6. Once you have the horse head mostly stuffed, insert the ball into the neck and finish stuffing around the ball. Hand-stitch the opening closed. 7. Cut out the horse’s ears and stitch around the perimeter. Turn right-side out and hand-stitch in place. 8. Add details such as a bridle and eyes. For these horses, I cut eyelashes from black felt and used fabric glue to glue them into place. I used the sewing machine to sew strips of scrap leather together to create the bridle and reins. DIY Stick HorseGift idea- DIY Stick HorsesAdorable DIY stick horsesIm going to make these horses for my little sister. I have already bought all the things you need so i cant wait to get started!!! I’m hoping these will be fun toys they will cherish for years to come.

http://www.abeautifulmess.com

Hi! Update!!

Hi all! Just thought i’d update you on all thats been going on in Gembobs Crafts.

Well first my cat gave birth and we have a new little kitten! He is called CJ and is sooo mega cute! He has been helping me with me sewing!!

Imageaww!! :) and we have a new puppy.. also very cute.

 

Anyway! the reason i haven’t been posting much is because ive recently got quite a few orders so i’ve been sourcing out some new colour specific fabrics, and i’ve lent my grandmas sewing machine because she has a zipper foot because i’ve been making cushions at last! finished me first one the other day yey!! 

Image

 

haha my sewing table!!! :D ive got white cotton on one and black on the other :P lazy i know!!

Also… completely random but look at the size of the eggs we have been getting from out chickens…Image

wow! hope your all okay and been crafting alot!

byee x

DSCF3115

Been very productive these past couple of days.
*Took new photos with a white background of all the crafts i have got in stock. Uploaded them on my Etsy Site!! :)
*Been thinking of new ideas.. what to make next.. starting to make funky cushions to sell
*Bought some very expensive pinking shears for my crafts.. i like to know that my items will not wear away and fray so i think it is a good investment
*got a knock on my door earlier for a massive order of elephants and babygrow elephants which i LOVE to make :)
Yey so things are going good in the world of crafts.

If you have any suggestions on what to make next.. please email me and have a look at my website..
http://www.gembobs.co.uk

thanks for reading guys!!!

Zippered Throw Pillow

Zippered Throw Pillow


Materials Needed…
Fabric of your choice -amount depends on the size of your pillow *see note below
A pillow form – can be found at most craft and fabric stores, the ones I used are from Ikea
Pins (you know the kind with the little ball on the end :)
Thread – preferably to match the color of your fabric
Tape Measure
An “all purpose” zipper – the length should be about 4″ shorter then your total pillow width
An Iron
and of course…A sewing machine
*If you are unsure how many yards of fabric to buy…I would purchase 1/2yard for a 16″ pillow form or smaller, and a full yard if your pillow form is larger then 16″ in diameter.

Step 1. Determine the size of your pillow (by looking at the tag) or measuring with a tape measure. Cut your fabric 1″ larger then the dimension of you pillow in both height and width. My pillow was 19″ x 19″ so I cut two pieces of fabric 20″ x 20″

Step 2. Take both of your fabric squares and lay them together so that the 4 sides line up perfectly (or in my case sort of perfectly). Make sure the pattern side of your fabric is facing in, so you will only see the backside of your fabric.

 
Step 3. Center you zipper in the top section of your fabric. Place a pin in the fabric where the zipper pull starts and the metal stop ends…as shown below…
 
 
Step 4. Now sew your fabric about 1/2″ down from the top edge until you hit the pin (which marks the stopping point). Do this to both sides of your fabric. Be sure to back-stitch a little at the beginning and end of the sewn seam for a stronger hold.
 
 
Step 5. Now, iron down the open seam (the same one you just sewed) about 1/2″ all the way down the fabric. 

 

 

 
Step 6. Place your zipper face down on the newly ironed fold. Pin the zipper down so it will stay in place while you sew it on. 
 
 
Step 7. Now for the scary part…which is really not so scary.
Sew the zipper to your fabric starting at the edge that does Not have the actual zipper pull. Pull the pins out of the fabric as you sew and make sure to once again back-stick at the start and end. STOP before you get to the end (actually you sort of have to because the zipper pull will be in the way).
 
Step 8. When you get to the zipper pull, lift up the presser foot and zip the zipper back a couple of inches. Put the presser foot back in place & keep sewing where you left off until you reach the end of the fabric. 
 
Step 9. Now pin around your entire pillow, making sure the end corners meet together nicely.
( I somehow forgot to take a pic. of all of my pins, so I photoshopped them in :)
 
 Step 10. Sew all the way around your pillow (except for the side with the zipper). To do this, start at any corner of your pillow and sew about a 1/2″ seam all the way down until you hit the next corner. Now lift up the presser foot (leave in the needle, woops…don’t look at the pictures to closely!) and turn the fabric 90 degrees. Then put the presser foot back down  and keep sewing. (do this at all corners).

 

 

 

 

 
Step 11. Cut the corners of your newly sewn pillow case, but don’t cut into your stitch lines. Removing this extra fabric will make your finished pillow case corners look smoother.
 
Step 12. Fold your pillow case right-side-out and insert pillow form. 

 

 
Voila!

Rustic Pencil Holder

Reblogged From http://strawberry-chic.blogspot.co.uk

I love the idea of bringing the outdoors in through rustic or organic design elements. Which is why I was thrilled when my husband made me this wooden pencil holder. The piece of wood is one that his friend found by a river bank. My husband just added a few holes to it, sanded down the edges, and made it into a functional decorative piece for my art room.

 

 

 

 

Click below to get the tutorial…it’s super simple!

Rustic Pencil Holder
Materials & Tools Needed
Hand saw
Small slice of wood either from a large branch or tree base (mine is a piece of poplar about 6″ in diameter)
Drill (with a drill bit size of about 7/16″)
Sand paper

Step 1. Using a hand saw, carefully cut your wood piece to the desired height.

 
Step 2. Drill holes into the top of your wood piece. You can drill in a pattern or randomly.
 
 
Step 3. Sand down the edges and add pencils.
 

dd

Murad Osmann takes of his girlfriend on their adventures across the world. Seeing their relationship through his point of view pulls on my heart strings.

Jellyfish in a bottle!

Make your own jellyfish in a bottle.

reblogged from bhoomplay

 

The other day, while I was thinking to get something to put in the water bottle for Bhoom to shake for fun. I saw a plastic grocery bag next to me and then this idea popped up. I think.. well, give it a try.

With some trials and errors, my little jellyfish comes alive just like I thought it would be. : ) When daddy and son first saw it, they’re surprised with their jaws wide open. Then, I asked my hubby to take pictures for this DIY Jellyfish in a bottle.

 

Things you need to make your own jellyfish (Hope you can find all these in your kitchen) :

1. A transparent plastic grocery bag
2. A plastic water bottles.
3. Thread
4. Food coloring
5. ScissorsInstruction:
• Flatten the bag and cut off the handle and the bottom part (see picture 1)
• Cut along both sides (see picture 2) to split into 2 plastic sheets – by the way, we only use just one of them.
• From the center of the plastic sheet, fold it like a tiny balloon to make the head part and tie it with the thread – not too tight (see picture 3). You must leave a little hole in order to pour some water in the head part (see picture 7-8).

• Now you’ll get the head balloon part and the remaining will be its tentacles. Cut from the edge up to the head part roughly. You’ll get for about 8-10 tentacles (see picture 4).
• For each of them, cut again into 3-4 small strings (see picture 5) – and just cut off the remaining part.
• Trim to make random long and short tentacles (see picture 6)

When finished, you’ll get something like this (the left pile is all the pieces we cut off)• Put some water into the head part to make it be able to sink (see picture 7). You must leave some air inside to make be able to float up (see picture 8).
• Fill up your water bottle (see picture 9).
• Put your jellyfish in the bottle with a few drops of blue food coloring. Screw in the cap and that’s all. : )

** Don’t forget to make sure the cap is properly closed and tight before give it to children ** How to play: Just let the kids turn it upside down – they’ll be surprised to see it moves every time they turn the bottle. And they’ll try to confuse this little jellyfish by turning the bottle back and forth very fast – well, my boy did . : )

For young kids like Bhoom, this will help him exercise his hand and arm muscles when he flips, rotates or turns the bottle. They can also learn about the relationship between the direction of bottle and the movement of the jellyfish. For older kids, you can ask them questions about why the jellyfish always floats up to the water surface and what is the differences between the real jellyfish and the one in the bottle.You can make a few extra bottles for your child’s friends. Trust me! They’ll have much more laugh and fun playing together. : )

Handmade Lampshade for your Home

Lisa Comfort is the owner of  Sew Over It, a crafty café based in Clapham. It’s a haven for anyone wishing to learn a new skill, from making a 1940’s tea dress to a Roman bling, whilst enjoying tea and a slice of cake. Sewing was always a passion for Lisa as a child and her passion lead her to study at the London College of Fashion, after which she went on to work for Bruce Oldfield and Phillipa Lepley. She has appeared on the television program Kirstie’s Vintage Home with Kirstie Allsopp, and the Alan Titchmarsh show where she showed viewers how to make a Liberty Print lampshade. But after feeling that sewing was fast becoming a lost skill, she wanted to re-inspire people to pick up their needles and thread, whether by hand or machine. And when there’s a sweet teatime treat involved, why not?

We spoke with the stitching fanatic to discover how she turned her love of sewing into more than just a hobby.

“I have sewn since I was a little girl. Sewing has been a friend of mine through my childhood, my teens and now as an adult. I decided to turn my passion into a business and set up Sew Over It in May 2011. We are a sewing cafe where you can drop in and hire machines while enjoying tea and cake. You can also take over 30 different classes, from dressmaking to soft furnishings and leather bags, or buy one of our kits or patterns to take away and sew at home. We like to think of ourselves as a one-stop sewing shop, where you can find anything and everything related to sewing. We are based in Clapham North and are hoping to open another shop north of the river soon.

Liberty fabrics have always been up there with my favourites. Tana Lawn has been a popular choice for my dressmaking projects over the years. I now have my own mini collection of clothes made from Liberty fabrics in my wardrobe.  So I was thrilled when I heard about the Lifestyle fabrics collection, and that there was going to be a new range suitable for quilting and more home based projects. Since they launched, we have used them in our café projects for cushions, bags, quilts, lampshades and lots more. The colour range are reflective of  ‘Sew Over It’ colours – bright and cheerful!

Today I am sharing with the Liberty Craft Blog readers the same instructions for the Liberty print lampshade I made for the Alan Tichmarch show. The idea of a patchwork lampshade came from Dominique Davant, one of our teachers at Sew Over It. Dominique shares my love of Liberty fabrics and showed me a sample she had made for herself out of scraps of fabric. I decided to do strips of fabric that are then sewn together in a patchwork, but anything works. Regular or irregular, they always look fab! Read on for Lisa’s quick and easy to follow steps for a pretty lampshade that will instantly transform any room.

Reblogged from http://www.liberty.co.uk

Patchwork Liberty print lampshade

1. Firstly measure the height of the lampshade paper and cut your fabric intro strips to this measurement. The width of the strips was random- varying from 6cm wide to 16cm. I wanted to use 5 different fabrics with some appearing twice and others just once. Using a rotary cutter, cutting mat and quilting ruler cut your strips into desired widths.

2. Then lay your strips in the order you want them.

3. Taking the first two strips, place them right sides together and stitch with 1cm seam allowance. Then take the third strip and add that in the same way and so on and so forth for the remaining strips. In the end you will have one long strip of fabric.

4. Press open all of the seams. Now peel back the paper from the adhesive card and slowly press onto the fabric, aligning the edges of the fabric with the edges of the card.

5. Turn over and smooth out any wrinkles. If you need to you can peel of the fabric in places and re-stick.

6. Then take the double sided tape and place a strip on one end of the card, within the scored lines. Then place the tape all the way round both rings, making sure it wraps round the edges.

7. Fold the top and bottom edges of the card along the scored lines. This should crack and then peel off to reveal a border of fabric. Remove the plastic from the double sided tape. Starting at the un-taped end of the card, place the plain ring on the top edge of the card and the ring with the bulb attachment at the bottom (facing upwards).

8. Slowly start rolling them together. It helps if you have a spare pair of hands for this step. When you get to the end peel the plastic from the tape off along the card edge and press firmly down, overlapping the fabric side of the card.

9. Roll the fabric border round the rings – this should stick to the double sided tape. Then using the triangle tool push the extra fabric in between the ring and the card. Cut off any frayed threads. Place on a lampstand and admire! This is a standard fitting so it should fit most lamps.

Feeling inspired and fancy adding that personal touch to your home?  You can buy the full lampshade kit here.

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