How to make a quick and easy apron dress for Dolls

free dollmaking tutorials at wee wonderfuls: quick and easy apron doll dress

Is your make-along doll underdressed and you’re pressed for time? With the risk of being captain obvious, here’s a quick photo tutorial for how to make a super cute, easy apron dress for your doll.

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

 

this blog post is from the wonderful weewonderfuls … check out her blog for more tutorials etc!!

Gembobs.

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DIY Fabric Covered Plates… Dishwasher Safe!!

DIY Fabric Covered Plates… Dishwasher Safe!!

MATERIALS:

  • Various fat quarter or fabric scraps
  • Dishwasher Safe Mod Podge
  • Scissors
  • Paint Brush or Sponge
  • Dishware

Dishwasher Safe Fabric Platter DIY


HOW TO:

Dishwasher Safe Fabric Platter DIY
Step One: Cut various sized strips of your fabric to accommodate the dish size.

Step Two: Making sure your dish is clean and dry, paint a thin layer of mod podge on it.

Step Three: Place your fabric on top of your mod podge, and gently smooth out any creases or bubbles.

Step Four: Cut off excess fabric on the sides. Repeat for all sides, or all around your dishware.

Dishwasher Safe Fabric Platter DIY

Step Five: Once your fabric is on your dishware, use a paint brush or sponge again and paint a thin layer of mod podge over your fabric. Make sure you cover the entire fabric, as well as the edges.

Step Six: If a monogram is desired, cut out your monogram letter, and apply it to your dish. Once again, paint over the monogram with the mod podge as you did in the previous step.

Step Seven: Allow mod podge to dry fully. If desired, you can add another layer of mod podge to your creation over the fabric for added security. (I did.)

Dishwasher Safe Fabric Platter DIY
And you are done!


Dishwasher Safe Fabric Platter DIY

Dishwasher Safe Fabric Platter DIY

Half the cost of custom dishware, for double the handmade present WOW factor. Imagine the possibilities.

Thanks so much http://www.mesewcrazy.com for the amazing blog post.

Happy Sewing!

Pillow/Cushion with a Pom Pom Trim!

I am currently in the process of moving into my new flat (Yey) So i will be making lots of beautiful things to fill my home with… So the next few posts are dedicated to home decor…

Enjoy!

How to make a cushion with a pom pom trim

Gather your supplies:
– 2.5 yards pom pom tassel
– fabric of your choice
– 18″ pillow form
– straight pins, marking pen, needle and thread, scissors, sewing machine

pom pom pillow sewing tutorial

Step 1:

Cut your fabric. Cut the back panel to 19″ x 19″ and 4 front pieces to 10″ x 10″ each.

For the front, place two 10″ x 10″ pieces on top of each other right sides together and sew a 1/2″ seam down one side. (If your print is a directional print, make sure you pay attention to which way your fabric is facing, so it will be correct once the pillow is finished) Do the same to the other two 10″ x 10″ pieces. Iron the seams open.

pom pom pillow sewing tutorial

Now you have 2 front pieces. Place one on top of the other (right sides together) and sew a 1/2″ seam down one side. Again, make sure your fabric is facing the right direction. Iron the seams open. You now have one ‘front’ piece’. Set aside.

pom pom pillow sewing tutorial

pom pom pillow sewing tutorial

Step 2:

Take your pom pom tassel and pin it around all 4 sides of the back panel. Make sure you pin it with the pom poms facing in. Sew or baste the tassel in place using a 1/4″ seam allowance, making sure to back stitch at each end.  I like to do this so when you sew the two panels together, you don’t have to worry too much about the tassel moving around.

pom pom pillow sewing tutorial

pom pom pillow sewing tutorial

Step 3:

Once your tassel is in place, you are almost done! Lay the front patchwork panel on top of the back panel (right sides together) matching up all 4 sides. Pin in place leaving about a 6″-7″ opening at the bottom of the pillowcase for flipping and stuffing.   Sew all around (except for the opening) with a 1/2″ seam allowance, making sure to backstitch at each end.

pom pom pillow sewing tutorial

Step 4:

Once your panels are sewn together, trim all 4 corners making sure not to cut the stitching. Flip the pillow right side out and poke out the corners with something pointy, like a turning tool. I use a knitting needle, works great! Stuff your pillow form through the opening.

pom pom pillow sewing tutorial

pom pom pillow sewing tutorial

Step 5:

Fold in the opening and pin closed. Using a needle and thread, sew the opening closed.

pom pom pillow sewing tutorial

With Thanks to http://www.annkelle.com/diy-pom-pom-pillow/

Knit Heart Dress Tutorial

Knit Heart Dress Tutorial

 

Materials:

  • Ready to wear dress or shirt with sleeves
  • Knit fabric
  • Scrap woven fabric
  • Scrap fabric for heart
  • Heart template
  • Stretch needle
  • Coordinating thread

Step 1:

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  • Take your ready to wear dress and pin the sleeves inside the dress so you can easily see the curve of the arm hole. This will make it easier to cut the same shape with your fabric for your new dress.
  • Fold your fabric making sure the stretch goes from left to right. Cut around the ready to wear dress leaving a 3/8″ seam allowance. Do this for the front of the dress as well as the back of the dress. Make sure your head opening is big enough to fit over your child’s head.

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  • Repeat for the sleeves

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  • Take your scrap fabric for your heart (making sure it is large enough to fit your heart template and an approximately 3/8″ seam allowance) and cut along the same angle as the dress
  • You should now have a dress front and back, two sleeves and heart fabric

Step 2:

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  • Make sure you install your stretch needle and turn your machine to your “lightning bolt” stitch or stretch stitch. On my machine it is stitch #3

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  • With RST pin the shoulders and sew using a 3/8″ seam allowance
  • Finish your seams with your serger (optional since the edges of knit fabric does not need finishing)

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  • Lay the dress front and back with right side up. Fold one of the sleeves in half and find the middle. Pin the middle of the sleeve to the shoulder seam with RST. Finish pinning the sleeve to the dress and sew. It is okay to slightly stretch the fabric in order for it to fit.
  • Repeat with the other sleeve

Step 3:

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  • With RST pin the sleeve and dress front and back and sew
  • Repeat on the other sideIMG_0046
  • With RST pin and sew the fabric for the heart

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  • Place your heart template on your fabric making sure you place it where you would like it to be sewn onto your dress. I wanted my heart just barely extending to the back of my dress so I have my side seam to the right side of my heart.
  • Cut out your heart leaving approximately 3/8″ seam allowance

Step 4:

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  • Place your scrap woven fabric on top of the right side of your dress. Pin the heart template to the top layer of your dress only. Make sure you place your heart exactly where your cut out fabric heart will go. I folded the side of my heart template where the seam is on the fabric heart to make sure I lined up the seam of the heart with the seam of the dress perfectly.
  • With a fabric pen trace around the heart template and sew on the line using a straight stitch. You could also leave your heart template pinned to your dress and sew just to the right of the template making sure not to sew the template to the dress. Make sure you are only sewing through one layer of the dress.

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  • Cut out the center of your heart making sure you don’t cut the back of your dress. Clip the corners and curves.

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  • pull the scrap fabric through the center of the heart and pin to the wrong side of the dress. Try your best to not stretch the fabric while pinning to keep the original shape of the heart. Sew the scrap fabric down using about a 1/4″ seam allowance.

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  • Cut the excess fabric off as close to the stitches as possible without cutting through the dress.

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  • Finish the edges on your heart with your serger or using a zig zap stitch. Place the heart over the heart opening and pin to the dress making sure to pin through only one layer of the dress. Turn the dress right side out and top stitch around the heart making sure not to stretch the heart as you go so it keeps its shape.

Step 5:

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  • Measure your neckline

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  • Cut a strip of your fabric the same length as your neckline and 1.5″ to make a neck binding. Make sure the stretch of the fabric goes from left to right.
  • Fold in half RST so the short ends are together and sew.

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  • Find the middle of the back neckline and pin the seam from your neck binding you just cut out. Finish pinning all the way across the neckline. Sew using your “lightning bolt” stitch.

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  • Fold the neck binding under halfway and then fold under again and pin and sew.

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  • Your neckline should now look like this.

Step 6:

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  • Fold your hem up 1/2″ and then again another 1/2″ and sew.
  • Repeat this process for both sleeves

Knit Heart Dress Sewing Tutorial - perfect for Valentine's Day!

  • You are FINISHED!! Enjoy your adorable new dress! Wear it just as it is in the warmer months or pair it with some leggings in the cooler months. It also makes the PERFECT Valentine’s Day dress without being too over the top.

 

 

Tutorial from the amazing website www.mesewcrazy.com

Picnic Dress

Making a picnic dress

picnic-dress-499x750

You will need 4 yards of 45″ fabric and an 18″ zipper.

These are the pieces of the pattern. Mark out the measurements listed and the distances between them. For example, on the waistband measure out the distance between your underbust/ribcage and your waist, then measure half your ribcage measurement at one side and half your waist measurement at the other. Then draw out the rest of the shape so it looks more or less like the pieces in the picture. If you aren’t used to making your own patterns it might be helpful to have a pattern for another dress to refer to, particularly for the sleeves.

Picnic-dress-pieces
  If you’re not used to making your own sleeves, trace both the arm hole and the top of the sleeve off a pattern you’ve used before and like. It’s tricky to get these curves right, and hard to move your arms if you get them wrong. I use gathered sleeves on this dress, which are a bit more forgiving. To change a regular set in sleeve to a gathered sleeve, simply make the top of the sleeve a bit larger without changing the arm hole. You will gather this extra, bringing the edge of the sleeve back to its original size.

To make the curve of the skirt even, use your tape measure like an enormous protractor. Pick a spot along the edge of the fabric to be the center of the skirt and draw a half circle by measuring a set distance (say 24 inches) from that point in every direction. This can go very quickly if you get someone else to hold the end of the tape measure in the middle. Make a smaller half circle around the same point for the waistline. The size of this inner circle will depend on your size, but should be something on the order of 5 inches.

 how-to-gather-750x499

To gather the top, mark out a distance ¾ of the difference between bust and underbust measurement on one side. Stitch along the edge of the fabric between these marks. Tie the threads together at one end. Pull slowly on one thread at the other end, gathering the fabric as you pull. When the gathered section is ⅓ of the length it began, tie the ends together. Repeat on the other side. Edit: if you still find this confusing, I’ve written more about it here http://www.oneaviandaemon.com/?p=863

After gathering both the lining and the top layer of the bodice, sew them together along the neckline. Turn right side out and press. Even out the gathers and make sure none of the edge bits are folded in, then sew both pieces of the bodice to the waist band, being careful with the gathered sections.

 bust-detail-750x499

Sew the edge of the facing to the neckline on each back piece. Turn and press. Turn in the edge of the facing and sew this edge to the back.

Sew the front and back together at the shoulders. Gather the center of each sleeve. Sew the sleeves into the armholes.

back-bow-551x750

Baste the ties to the waist band, then sew the front and back together along the side. The waistband will be sewn into this seam. Sew up the underside of the sleeve. Turn under the edge of the sleeve and sew it down.

Sew in the pockets if you’re including them (for more detailed directions, see here). Sew up the sides (but not the back) of the skirt, and sew the skirt to the top. Put in the zipper, then sew up the back of the skirt.

Turn under ½ inch all along the bottom of the skirt, then another 2 ½ inches. Hem along this edge, taking the smallest stitches you can out of the skirt.

If there’s anything you’d like to know that I’ve skipped or explained badly, please ask about it!

 

From – http://www.oneaviandaemon.com 

How to turn up a dress quickly

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This is my little sister dress her mum bought for her the other day but it is very long, and long dresses are not good for small children! Lots of tripping over involved. So i turned it up for her. So here is a simple demonstration on how to do it. 🙂

Step 1: Decide on what length you would like the dress to be and cut the remainder of the fabric off. I use crimping scissors to make sure the fabric doesn’t fray.

(Keep the leftover fabric, i used this to make a little headband to match the dress using elastic)

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Step 2:Turn the rim up and press. Make sure it has the same thickness all the way along.

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Step 3: Repeat the same process as before,

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Pin the fabric in place once pressed so it doesn’t move whilst sewing!!

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Step 4: Sew all the way along making sure its straight. Easy peasy!! Your probably didn’t need a tutorial but hey.. i thought i’d do one anyway!!

🙂 Happy Sewing!!

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Hoop Earrings

I adore this fun jewelry tutorial. I hope you do, too! -http://www.creaturecomfortsblog.com/

I originally made a neon green version of these hoops for an 80’s Halloween party­–perfect under the black lights. When I went to pick colors for this tutorial, however, I pulled this more gentle color palette with a punch of black. I think it’s so lovely. These hoops are simple to make, yet such a fun splash of hand made in your wardrobe. Add the ability to customize every pair and you might just not be able to stop making them. I adore these little black and white ones.

 
These hoops make for a fabulous last minute, personalized gifts, too!  Here’s the tutorial:
 
 

Supplies needed:

  • Embroidery thread (I suggest DMC 6-strand floss for a smooth finish)
  • Inexpensive hoop earrings (I found these at Target)
  • Craft glue
  • Scissors

Cut 40” of chosen embroidery thread colors for a large hoop, less for smaller hoops. If you place the hoops in your ear before you start, it will help you decide where to change colors and place the majority of your design color work (remove hoop from ear before next step).

Start by placing a small bit of craft glue at the end of the hoop.  

Take desired embroidery thread colors and line them up parallel to the hoop, placing the end of the thread in the bit of glue. Choose the thread color you want to start with and begin wrapping it around the hoop…the other colors you aren’t using they go along for the ride (make sure they are being hidden by the thread color that you want to have showing). Keep wrapped thread snugly side-by-side so you can’t see the hoop or other colors underneath.

When you want to change colors, drop the first color parallel to the hoop and start wrapping with the next color you’d like. Repeat to change colors again. Change as many times as you’d like.  

When you get to the end, place another small bit of glue. Wrap thread directly over that glue, using your finger to wipe away any excess. Trim the embroidery thread colors that you are not using first as close to the hoop as possible. Then place a little extra glue to secure the remaining thread over the ends of the other colors, and trim excess. Repeat the finishing process on the other side of the wrapped hoop. Repeat full process for your other earring. Voila!

 
To create the striped earrings, simply wrap the embroidery threads together at the same time, as if they were one. Keep them in the same alignment as you wrap, and finish with the same process as used above.
 

So fast, easy and fun! Happy Hooping!

6 steps to improving your photography

Whether you run a blog or an online Etsy store, good photography can really help you and your crafty creations get noticed online.What’s more, you can achieve great results with a regular camera. Claire Gillo explains how

Capture your makes with a compact camera

You’ll need:

Compact Camera

Wooden surface

Large window (natural light)

Craft items to photograph

Step 1

Step 1 Set up your shoot next to a window. We want to use natural light, so around midday is good time as the light is at its best. Find a nice background to frame your subject. A wooden surface works well – we used the side of a toy chest and its lid.

Step 2

Step 2 Next arrange your subject and/or props. Try not to over-prop the shot and choose items and/or colours that complement each other.

 

Step 3

Step 3 Some compact cameras only shoot in a fully automatic mode (if so, skip to Step 5). If your camera can shoot in a part-manual mode put it into the Aperture priority mode (this is often marked as A or Av) as this controls the depth of field in the lens.

Step 4

Step 4 Set the Aperture (depth of field) to the widest setting. This is the smallest number it can go to, and on our camera it’s f/3.5. Using a wide aperture helps blur the background while keeping the foreground object sharp. This creates a softer and ‘dreamier’ image.

Step 5

Step 5 You could also enhance the shot with a photo filter effect. We used the Film Simulation Astia/Soft effect; check your camera manual to see what yours can do. Next, shoot from a low angle, isolating the object/s. Avoid distracting background elements.

Step 6

Step 6 Ensure the focus point stays sharp on the main subject matter. Think about the direction of the main light source. Use faint shadows to give the object/s definition but watch out for heavy casting ones. Once you’re happy, upload it to your blog!

Make your own tent!! :)

DIY A-Frame Tent-A Beautiful Mess We love a-frame tents, so we invited Rubyellen to share her method for making your own. Are you excited? Here’s how the magic happens-A-Frame Tent SuppliesA-Frame Tent Supplies1. From the top of each moulding, measure and mark 6″ down with your pencil. 2. With your drill and 3/4″ spade bit, drill a hole at your mark. Try to center the hole on your moulding. These holes will be for the top of your A-frame tent. 3. From the opposite end of your moulding, measure and mark 1.5″ down with your pencil. 4. With your drill and 3/4″ spade bit, drill a hole at your mark. Try to center the hole on your moulding. These holes will be for the bottom of your A-frame tent. 

A-FRAME TENT DIMENSIONS

Making the cover: Since the cover is made using a vintage crocheted cloth, what you have readily available to use may be a different measurement. The key size to get your tent cover is about 44″ – 51″ in length and about 80″ – 84″ in width, so depending on the size of your crocheted cloth, your crocheted cloth to panel fabric proportion may vary from the one used. In fact, on our tent, the crocheted cover is slightly larger than the fabric panel by an inch or so on each side. If you have a crocheted cover large enough and don’t need a fabric panel, an option would be to fold the bottom of your crocheted cover to create a panel in which to feed your dowel through. Be creative, there are a lot of fun possibilities to use for a tent cover!
(Hint: A twin sized sheet fits this tent frame almost perfectly!)Tent Cover SuppliesTent Cover Supplies1. Cut the fabric to the size needed. In our case, it was 14″ x 53″. For the 14″ side, fold over 1/2″ and press, and fold over 1/2″ again and press. Pin in place. Repeat with the opposite side. Do this for both panels. Then, use a sewing machine to stitch the hem. With the 53″ side, place the right sides together and stitch using a 1/2″ seam. Repeat for second panel. Turn inside out and press. 2. Place the long side of crocheted cloth and fabric together with right sides together, pin in place, and stitch together using a 1/2″ seam. Repeat with second panel for the opposite side. 3. Group dowels into pairs and line up the top holes. Push dowel through the holes of the top moulding (6″ down from top). The hole should have a pretty tight grip and keep the dowel in place. Repeat with the dowels for the opposite end. Drape your tent cover on top. 4. Grab another dowel and push through the holes on the bottom of one side and feed through the bottom panel and connect the dowel to the opposite end. Repeat for second dowel on the opposite side. Open up the tent cover to desired width and height of opening. Grab a pillow, blanket, go underneath and enjoy!
TIPS: For a little extra detail and to keep the tent cover taut, I fed twine through some holes of the cover and tied it to the legs of the frame. This helps prevent the tent cover from sagging. Also, if you are using this on wood floors the legs may have a hard time staying up. I find that if you put your tent on top of a blanket it will help it from just falling flat.
Again, how you make this tent cover will vary depending on the size of the crocheted cover you find and decide to use. I just happen to come across a cover that was almost the exact size I needed, so I didn’t have to really piece together too much. Nevertheless, it will look beautiful with lots of little crocheted pieces put together or even with just one large piece as a cover. Just remember, have fun making it and after you will have a special little hideaway to enjoy! 
DIY A-Frame Tent (A Beautiful Mess) DIY A-Frame Tent (A Beautiful Mess)