How to make a quick and easy apron dress for Dolls

free dollmaking tutorials at wee wonderfuls: quick and easy apron doll dress

Is your make-along doll underdressed and you’re pressed for time? With the risk of being captain obvious, here’s a quick photo tutorial for how to make a super cute, easy apron dress for your doll.

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress


this blog post is from the wonderful weewonderfuls … check out her blog for more tutorials etc!!


Knit Heart Dress Tutorial

Knit Heart Dress Tutorial



  • Ready to wear dress or shirt with sleeves
  • Knit fabric
  • Scrap woven fabric
  • Scrap fabric for heart
  • Heart template
  • Stretch needle
  • Coordinating thread

Step 1:


  • Take your ready to wear dress and pin the sleeves inside the dress so you can easily see the curve of the arm hole. This will make it easier to cut the same shape with your fabric for your new dress.
  • Fold your fabric making sure the stretch goes from left to right. Cut around the ready to wear dress leaving a 3/8″ seam allowance. Do this for the front of the dress as well as the back of the dress. Make sure your head opening is big enough to fit over your child’s head.


  • Repeat for the sleeves


  • Take your scrap fabric for your heart (making sure it is large enough to fit your heart template and an approximately 3/8″ seam allowance) and cut along the same angle as the dress
  • You should now have a dress front and back, two sleeves and heart fabric

Step 2:


  • Make sure you install your stretch needle and turn your machine to your “lightning bolt” stitch or stretch stitch. On my machine it is stitch #3


  • With RST pin the shoulders and sew using a 3/8″ seam allowance
  • Finish your seams with your serger (optional since the edges of knit fabric does not need finishing)


  • Lay the dress front and back with right side up. Fold one of the sleeves in half and find the middle. Pin the middle of the sleeve to the shoulder seam with RST. Finish pinning the sleeve to the dress and sew. It is okay to slightly stretch the fabric in order for it to fit.
  • Repeat with the other sleeve

Step 3:


  • With RST pin the sleeve and dress front and back and sew
  • Repeat on the other sideIMG_0046
  • With RST pin and sew the fabric for the heart


  • Place your heart template on your fabric making sure you place it where you would like it to be sewn onto your dress. I wanted my heart just barely extending to the back of my dress so I have my side seam to the right side of my heart.
  • Cut out your heart leaving approximately 3/8″ seam allowance

Step 4:


  • Place your scrap woven fabric on top of the right side of your dress. Pin the heart template to the top layer of your dress only. Make sure you place your heart exactly where your cut out fabric heart will go. I folded the side of my heart template where the seam is on the fabric heart to make sure I lined up the seam of the heart with the seam of the dress perfectly.
  • With a fabric pen trace around the heart template and sew on the line using a straight stitch. You could also leave your heart template pinned to your dress and sew just to the right of the template making sure not to sew the template to the dress. Make sure you are only sewing through one layer of the dress.


  • Cut out the center of your heart making sure you don’t cut the back of your dress. Clip the corners and curves.


  • pull the scrap fabric through the center of the heart and pin to the wrong side of the dress. Try your best to not stretch the fabric while pinning to keep the original shape of the heart. Sew the scrap fabric down using about a 1/4″ seam allowance.


  • Cut the excess fabric off as close to the stitches as possible without cutting through the dress.


  • Finish the edges on your heart with your serger or using a zig zap stitch. Place the heart over the heart opening and pin to the dress making sure to pin through only one layer of the dress. Turn the dress right side out and top stitch around the heart making sure not to stretch the heart as you go so it keeps its shape.

Step 5:


  • Measure your neckline


  • Cut a strip of your fabric the same length as your neckline and 1.5″ to make a neck binding. Make sure the stretch of the fabric goes from left to right.
  • Fold in half RST so the short ends are together and sew.


  • Find the middle of the back neckline and pin the seam from your neck binding you just cut out. Finish pinning all the way across the neckline. Sew using your “lightning bolt” stitch.


  • Fold the neck binding under halfway and then fold under again and pin and sew.


  • Your neckline should now look like this.

Step 6:


  • Fold your hem up 1/2″ and then again another 1/2″ and sew.
  • Repeat this process for both sleeves

Knit Heart Dress Sewing Tutorial - perfect for Valentine's Day!

  • You are FINISHED!! Enjoy your adorable new dress! Wear it just as it is in the warmer months or pair it with some leggings in the cooler months. It also makes the PERFECT Valentine’s Day dress without being too over the top.



Tutorial from the amazing website

Make the cutest hedgehog!!!

Make a hedgehog pincushion – tutorial


This is the cutest ever pin cushion and will look so good on your craft table!!

Reblogged from the wonderful 

Have a look at their blogs they are seriously amazing! 🙂 Happy sewing.


I love hedgehogs.  I would consider moving to New Zealand just so that I could have them living in my yard, even though I hear that they can be a real nuisance.  Oh, but they are so cute!  And to be able to say hedgehogs live at the bottom of your garden would be a rather amazing thing to say, as if you lived in a children’s story book.  They are certainly a nicer looking than the snotty slugs and fuzzy-fat-goo-squirting caterpillars I keep accidentally stepping on in my own garden.  Blerk.

I remember my mother making me one of these when I was very young and just beginning to sew.  It’s a perfect addition to a youngsters first sewing kit.  The faux fur does a great job of emulating a hedgehog’s spines, but you don’t have to use fur.  Maybe a fun printed cotton or some towelling.  Of course, she won’t look as prickly, but you’ll just have to stick more pins in her!

What you need:

– 20cm square (or equivalent measure) of fabric (we’ll call this ‘fabric 1’) for head, belly and ears.  I used a woollen fabric which, although looks great all finished, was an absolute SOD to work with on such a small scale.  Lots of fraying.  If you have some about  and you also have the patience of a saint, by all means, use it.  A strong cotton or linen would be less taxing on the nerves.

– 20cm square of fabric (fabric 2) for the back.  As mentioned faux fur is great, but towelling or cotton is fine, too.

– Sewing needle and strong thread.  The smaller ear pieces and some of the curves are best tackled with hand sewing.

– Polyfill stuffing.

– 2 black seed beads for eyes.

– 50cm black embroidery thread or perle cotton for embroidering nose.  Or you could use a bead or tiny pompom instead.

– Embroidery needle for embroidering nose.

– Optional ribbon for bow.

What you do:

Print out the pattern sheet and cut out the pieces (click on the image below to view full size image, then right click and save as a file, then print it).  On the head piece, mark the nose because it helps!  All pattern pieces include a 0.5 centimetre seam allowance.  


From fabric 1, cut one belly piece.  Fold remainder of fabric in half and cut two head pieces (that are a mirror image of each other) and four ears.

From fabric 2, cut 2 back pieces (again, that are a mirror image of each other).  *Important note – if using fur fabric or towelling, be sure to cut the piece with the nap (pile).  For more information about this, read this.

With right sides facing stitch ear pieces together (because these are so tiny, it’s best to hand sew these with backstitch).  Carefully clip seams, turn and press.

Pinch a pleat in the ears as shown, and securing with a few stitches.

Place ears on body pieces about halfway up edge with pleats facing upwards.  Baste securely.

Place one head piece and one body piece right sides together, and stitch, making sure you catch that ear in nice and tight.  Give it a very light press from the back (if using fur, pressing will flatten the pile, but you can brush it up again with your fingers.)


 Do the same with the other head and body piece to give you a mirror image.  Ta-daa!

 Now, place the two piece together and pin.  If using fur, comb it as best you can away from the edge so you don’t sew too much of it in the seam (see the above link again for tips on how to sew fur).  Stitch from the back end all the way to the tip of the nose.  Clip carefully, and turn out, and carefully comb out any fur that may have been caught in the seam.

Time to sew on the belly!  Remembering that the pointy end of the belly piece meets the nose, place body and belly pieces with the wrong sides together, pin and stitch, leaving a gap open at the rear end (about a half inch either side of the back seam) so she can be stuffed.  You may wish to hand-sew the tricky bits around the nose (although I had no trouble; it doesn’t have to be absolutely perfect – embroidering the nose will help hide any minor hiccups!)

Again, clip seams and carefully turn out.

Stuff firmly with polyfill, paying special attention to the nose, (something long, thin and blunt will help here too) and the face area in general.  Shape your hedgehog gently in your hands to flatten the bottom so she doesn’t roll about too much.

When you’re happy with your stuffing job, it’s time to sew her up.  The belly piece left open at the back can get a bit flappy, so take your needle and thread and hand-gather along the seam line, and pull gently on the thread, drawing up the fabric until the belly and back opening edges are a pretty good match in size.  Turn in edges of the belly and back pieces and sew the seam shut with a close ladder stitch.

For the face, thread up your embroidery needle with your black embroidery thread.  Tie a knot in the loose end.  Enter your needle through the tip of the nose and out through the face into the position of where you want the first eye to be sewn.  Thread the first bead on and slide it down the thread, then the needle re-enters the head at the point of the first eye position and exits on the other side in the second eye position.

(Tip! If  you place the eyes to close together, your hedgehog will look more like  a hairy rat.  Things look cuter and more gormless when their eyes are place further away from each other.  That’s not to say hedgehogs are gormless, but they definitely aren’t shifty looking either, even though they may well be sneaky creatures).  Thread the second bead on and slide it down the thread.  Pass the needle through the head again back to the other eye and through it’s hole again, pulling the thread slightly to indent the eyes.  Pass the needle back and forth a few times between the eyes, making sure they are secure.


When you’re finished with the eyes, bring the needle back out through the nose.  Cut the tail hanging from the nose (but leave the knot!)  To make the nose, embroider a few very small satin stitches around the knot left on the nose.  When you’re happy with her nose, cut the thread and you’re done!

You can then fancy her up with a cute little bow if you like, or embellish her in any other way you might think of.   She would make a lovely wrist-band type of pincushion if you sewed her to a band of elastic to fit your wrist, making her look like she’s taking a stroll up your arm.  Oh, and don’t forget to stick some pins in her bottom.
Although she’s very handy as a pin cushion in mini-size, you could try enlarging the pattern and making a larger hedgehog as a toy or a decorative cushion for a child’s (or adult’s) bed.  Not as handy, nor mini, but she would still look very cute.
Gemma xx 

How to turn up a dress quickly


This is my little sister dress her mum bought for her the other day but it is very long, and long dresses are not good for small children! Lots of tripping over involved. So i turned it up for her. So here is a simple demonstration on how to do it. 🙂

Step 1: Decide on what length you would like the dress to be and cut the remainder of the fabric off. I use crimping scissors to make sure the fabric doesn’t fray.

(Keep the leftover fabric, i used this to make a little headband to match the dress using elastic)


Step 2:Turn the rim up and press. Make sure it has the same thickness all the way along.


Step 3: Repeat the same process as before,


Pin the fabric in place once pressed so it doesn’t move whilst sewing!!


Step 4: Sew all the way along making sure its straight. Easy peasy!! Your probably didn’t need a tutorial but hey.. i thought i’d do one anyway!!

🙂 Happy Sewing!!



image (14)


image (15)


Embroidery is the handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as metal strips, pearlsbeadsquills, and sequins

I love Embroidery and think people can create such wonderful things using it. I’ve embellished a few tops in my time when i was super bored and wanted to take my mind off things!!



^^^A waistcoat that was very plain and needed something to jazz it up! ^^^^


Here are some simple stitches to get you started, 

Split Stitch: The split stitch is great for everything. Outlines? Yep! Letters? You betcha! Fills? Heck, yea! It’s the perfect stitch to use on clothing or accessories or anything that’s going to get a lot of action since each stitch locks the stitch before it down. I like to use shorter stitches for outlines and letters because they give you more control on curves and such, and a longer stitch on fills so that I’m not stitching until the next Olympics.

  Start your split stitch by coming up through the middle of your first stitch, splitting it in half.

That’s why it’s called a split stitch!

  Make the rest of your stitches the same length as your first to get a nice, even line.
  Start your stitches in the middle of the stitch before. Use the end of the stitch two stitches before as a guide.

The back of your split stitch should look like the front of the back stitch. That’s how you know you’re doing it right!

Stem Stitch:  It  has a cool ropey look about it that makes it great for lettering. Like the split stitch, use shorter stitches when you’re working anything with curves.

  The first stitch of your stem stitch should be half the length of the rest of your stitches. Start your second stitch alongside your first stitch.
  Start each stitch at the end of the stitch two stitches before, so the start of the third stitch should be at the end of the first.

This stitch is great to work “from the front,” which means you can poke the needle through and out of the fabric without switching your hand from back to front. This makes stitching go much faster and makes the whole process easier on your hands.

  Make sure all your stitches start on the same side of your stitch line.

Just like with your split stitch, the back of your stem stitch should look like a back stitch.

Back Stitch: The back stitch is a great outline, especially if you want a homespun effect to your work. It’s also great when using a few strands of floss to get thin, almost pen-and-ink-style line for backgrounds and fills. I’ve used it several times when doing black and white embroidery to add lowlights and textures. As a fill, it makes for great texture. Make the stitches in a bricklike fashion, and you’ve got a pretty long/short style fill (I used to call this a running stitch until I was corrected by a lovely commenter, normasews.  A running stitch actually looks like a broken line! Thanks normasews!)

  Start your back stitch as you would any other line stitch. Start the second stitch on the other side of your stitch.

Since you can’t start the second stitch at the end of the first without pulling the first stitch out, you need to start the stitch on the away side of the stitch.

  Start the third stitch at the end of the second stitch.

The back stitch line should look like a perforated line in paper.

  Make sure all your stitches are the same length.

The back of the back stitch will not look like the back stitch! It should look like a running stitch when done correctly.

Chain Stitch: I love the chain stitch as much as I love the stem stitch. Ask me which one I love better and I couldn’t choose—it’d be like picking a favorite child. Don’t make me do it! Big and loopy, it makes a great accent stitch, while tighter it makes a great old-timey-looking outline for patterns and letters. I’ve also used it as a fill and find that the openness of the chain makes for great texture when stitching hair or fur.

  The first stitch of your chain stitch is a loop. It should start and stop in the same place. Start the second stitch at the top of the loop.
  All your loop stitches will be made in the same way. Use your free hand to add a bit of tension to the previous loop.

This is another great stitch to work from the front and goes like rockets once you get it down.

  The bigger your loops, the more chainlike your stitches will look.

Like the split stitch and the stem stitch before it, the back of the chain stitch will also look like our friend the back stitch.

Blanket Stitch: The blanket stitch is my go-to joining stitch. If you look in my shop, you will see it over and over and over. I love the old world of this stitch and like to use it to add a handcrafted look to mundane, everyday items. This stitch looks hard, but it’s so very easy once you get it down.  The stitch is worked right to left, like the pictures below.  The pictures may look strange or flipped but that’s just because I was stitching upside down for the camera, the stitches are still going the right direction.


The first stitch of the blanket stitch is a three-point stitch. Starting on the bottom fabric, insert your needle diagonally into the top fabric. Bring the needle down in line with the first stitch over your floss.


  The second stitch starts on the top fabric. Bring your needle down into the bottom fabric as you did on the first stitch.

This stitch is also great to join edges or as a decorative border on blankets, quilts, home accessories, and clothing.

  This stitch gets its name because it’s often used to edge blankets. The more even your stitches are, the more polished your finished work will look.

If you’re using the blanket stitch on an edge, the front and back should look the same. If you’re using it to join two flat pieces, then the back will look like evenly spaced vertical lines.

Now stop worrying and start stitching! There are tons of patterns out there from Jenny Hartto vintage-looking Aunt Martha to Etsy finds.

Happy stitching!

Handmade Lampshade for your Home

Lisa Comfort is the owner of  Sew Over It, a crafty café based in Clapham. It’s a haven for anyone wishing to learn a new skill, from making a 1940’s tea dress to a Roman bling, whilst enjoying tea and a slice of cake. Sewing was always a passion for Lisa as a child and her passion lead her to study at the London College of Fashion, after which she went on to work for Bruce Oldfield and Phillipa Lepley. She has appeared on the television program Kirstie’s Vintage Home with Kirstie Allsopp, and the Alan Titchmarsh show where she showed viewers how to make a Liberty Print lampshade. But after feeling that sewing was fast becoming a lost skill, she wanted to re-inspire people to pick up their needles and thread, whether by hand or machine. And when there’s a sweet teatime treat involved, why not?

We spoke with the stitching fanatic to discover how she turned her love of sewing into more than just a hobby.

“I have sewn since I was a little girl. Sewing has been a friend of mine through my childhood, my teens and now as an adult. I decided to turn my passion into a business and set up Sew Over It in May 2011. We are a sewing cafe where you can drop in and hire machines while enjoying tea and cake. You can also take over 30 different classes, from dressmaking to soft furnishings and leather bags, or buy one of our kits or patterns to take away and sew at home. We like to think of ourselves as a one-stop sewing shop, where you can find anything and everything related to sewing. We are based in Clapham North and are hoping to open another shop north of the river soon.

Liberty fabrics have always been up there with my favourites. Tana Lawn has been a popular choice for my dressmaking projects over the years. I now have my own mini collection of clothes made from Liberty fabrics in my wardrobe.  So I was thrilled when I heard about the Lifestyle fabrics collection, and that there was going to be a new range suitable for quilting and more home based projects. Since they launched, we have used them in our café projects for cushions, bags, quilts, lampshades and lots more. The colour range are reflective of  ‘Sew Over It’ colours – bright and cheerful!

Today I am sharing with the Liberty Craft Blog readers the same instructions for the Liberty print lampshade I made for the Alan Tichmarch show. The idea of a patchwork lampshade came from Dominique Davant, one of our teachers at Sew Over It. Dominique shares my love of Liberty fabrics and showed me a sample she had made for herself out of scraps of fabric. I decided to do strips of fabric that are then sewn together in a patchwork, but anything works. Regular or irregular, they always look fab! Read on for Lisa’s quick and easy to follow steps for a pretty lampshade that will instantly transform any room.

Reblogged from

Patchwork Liberty print lampshade

1. Firstly measure the height of the lampshade paper and cut your fabric intro strips to this measurement. The width of the strips was random- varying from 6cm wide to 16cm. I wanted to use 5 different fabrics with some appearing twice and others just once. Using a rotary cutter, cutting mat and quilting ruler cut your strips into desired widths.

2. Then lay your strips in the order you want them.

3. Taking the first two strips, place them right sides together and stitch with 1cm seam allowance. Then take the third strip and add that in the same way and so on and so forth for the remaining strips. In the end you will have one long strip of fabric.

4. Press open all of the seams. Now peel back the paper from the adhesive card and slowly press onto the fabric, aligning the edges of the fabric with the edges of the card.

5. Turn over and smooth out any wrinkles. If you need to you can peel of the fabric in places and re-stick.

6. Then take the double sided tape and place a strip on one end of the card, within the scored lines. Then place the tape all the way round both rings, making sure it wraps round the edges.

7. Fold the top and bottom edges of the card along the scored lines. This should crack and then peel off to reveal a border of fabric. Remove the plastic from the double sided tape. Starting at the un-taped end of the card, place the plain ring on the top edge of the card and the ring with the bulb attachment at the bottom (facing upwards).

8. Slowly start rolling them together. It helps if you have a spare pair of hands for this step. When you get to the end peel the plastic from the tape off along the card edge and press firmly down, overlapping the fabric side of the card.

9. Roll the fabric border round the rings – this should stick to the double sided tape. Then using the triangle tool push the extra fabric in between the ring and the card. Cut off any frayed threads. Place on a lampstand and admire! This is a standard fitting so it should fit most lamps.

Feeling inspired and fancy adding that personal touch to your home?  You can buy the full lampshade kit here.



Apple Plush Pillow with DownloadHere’s a little pillow tutorial from the great craftsbeautiful!

Apple Plush Pillow PatternHere is an illustration to use as a guide for cutting out your apple. You’ll need two layers of red fabric in this size. Leave a little extra space at the top (as we’ve shown with the dotted line) because this is where you will stuff your apple from and attach the stem. For the facial features, we created a download for you to print out at home (or you can “eyeball it” based on our photo!) Template/ DOWNLOAD

Apple Plush Pillow Steps
1. Supplies Needed: red velvet, white and black felt, burlap, green cotton fabric, scissors, stuffing, iron. 2. Cut out pieces using the templates.  Turn the red velvet inside out and stitch around the edges, leaving an opening at the top where the stem will go.  Flip the apple right-side-out (so the velvet is now showing).  Stuff the pillow with the stuffing. 3. Stitch around the edges of the leaf (green fabric), leaving a small opening.  Flip the leaf right-side out and iron flat. 4. Stitch around the edge of the stem (burlap), leaving the bottom open.  Stuff the stem until slightly plump. 5. Insert the stem and leaf into the opening of the apple and hand-stitch the opening closed (sewing through the stem and leaf). 6. Apply the eyes and mouth with fabric glue.  You’re all finished! 

Apple Plush Pillow Tutorial (with pattern)I hope you enjoy making this apple pillow for your home! 

Hoop Earrings

I adore this fun jewelry tutorial. I hope you do, too! -

I originally made a neon green version of these hoops for an 80’s Halloween party­–perfect under the black lights. When I went to pick colors for this tutorial, however, I pulled this more gentle color palette with a punch of black. I think it’s so lovely. These hoops are simple to make, yet such a fun splash of hand made in your wardrobe. Add the ability to customize every pair and you might just not be able to stop making them. I adore these little black and white ones.

These hoops make for a fabulous last minute, personalized gifts, too!  Here’s the tutorial:

Supplies needed:

  • Embroidery thread (I suggest DMC 6-strand floss for a smooth finish)
  • Inexpensive hoop earrings (I found these at Target)
  • Craft glue
  • Scissors

Cut 40” of chosen embroidery thread colors for a large hoop, less for smaller hoops. If you place the hoops in your ear before you start, it will help you decide where to change colors and place the majority of your design color work (remove hoop from ear before next step).

Start by placing a small bit of craft glue at the end of the hoop.  

Take desired embroidery thread colors and line them up parallel to the hoop, placing the end of the thread in the bit of glue. Choose the thread color you want to start with and begin wrapping it around the hoop…the other colors you aren’t using they go along for the ride (make sure they are being hidden by the thread color that you want to have showing). Keep wrapped thread snugly side-by-side so you can’t see the hoop or other colors underneath.

When you want to change colors, drop the first color parallel to the hoop and start wrapping with the next color you’d like. Repeat to change colors again. Change as many times as you’d like.  

When you get to the end, place another small bit of glue. Wrap thread directly over that glue, using your finger to wipe away any excess. Trim the embroidery thread colors that you are not using first as close to the hoop as possible. Then place a little extra glue to secure the remaining thread over the ends of the other colors, and trim excess. Repeat the finishing process on the other side of the wrapped hoop. Repeat full process for your other earring. Voila!

To create the striped earrings, simply wrap the embroidery threads together at the same time, as if they were one. Keep them in the same alignment as you wrap, and finish with the same process as used above.

So fast, easy and fun! Happy Hooping!