How to make a quick and easy apron dress for Dolls

free dollmaking tutorials at wee wonderfuls: quick and easy apron doll dress

Is your make-along doll underdressed and you’re pressed for time? With the risk of being captain obvious, here’s a quick photo tutorial for how to make a super cute, easy apron dress for your doll.

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

doll clothes sewing quick and easy apron dress

 

this blog post is from the wonderful weewonderfuls … check out her blog for more tutorials etc!!

Gembobs.

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Quilted Birdhouse and Birds! :)

You will need the following items to construct the birdhouse:

– Scrap pieces of patterned cotton fabric – if you are buying the fabric you will want no more than ¼ yard of each pattern.
– 4 or 5 sheets of felt
– 4 bundles of thread
– Scrap batting – if you are purchasing the batting you will need very little – about 1/3 yard to be safe.
– Sharp scissors
– Sewing needles
– Sewing machine – it could be done all by hand but would take longer to do.
– An embroidery book if you don’t know the stitches by heart.
– A pattern of pieces – My pattern is shown above. If you are following this pattern you will use the square pattern (6 x 6 inches) 3 times for 2 sides and 1 bottom piece and the pointed pattern (6 x 6 inch with a 2 inch high triangle on top) 2 times for the front and back pieces. You will see the roof pattern in step 10. It is 7 inches wide by 11 inches long.
– 4 bells – if you want the birds to be rattles when completed.

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Before you start cutting any fabric it’s a good idea to iron your pieces. You can do it after if you want but it does make cutting your fabric a little easier.

Turn one piece of fabric over to the backside. Using your pattern draw the squares that you will need to cut from the fabric. Cut out the squares. Repeat with remaining patterns.

Once all of your squares are cut arrange them how you want your panels to look. You will need two panels of nine squares each, and one panel of eight squares – leaving out the bottom middle square to account for the doorway of the bird house.

The back panel is solid so it won’t need to be sewn.

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Turn two pieces of fabric with the patterned sides facing each other. Using a sewing machine sew the pieces along one side leaving about a ¼ inch edge. Repeat with another square so you have three in a row. Repeat again so you will have three rows of three squares.

Now turn two rows of fabric with patterned sides facing each other. Using your sewing machine again sew the rows along one side leaving a ¼ inch edge. Repeat with the remaining row so you have a square panel of nine smaller squares.

Repeat entire step again with remaining squares for the other side panel and the front panel (minus the bottom middle square).

Cut an arch from the middle square of the front panel for the doorway of the bird house.

Once all pieces are sewn into panels iron them flat. This will make for easier sewing later.

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In this step you will need sewn panels, scrap felt, thread, needle and scissors.

Cut shapes of felt and arrange on one panel. Stitch the felt on the panel with thread. Embroider the fabric to make blades of grass and vines to connect the flower-like elements.

On my bird house I didn’t want to notice the thread so much on the cut out felt pieces so I chose thread to match the felt color. It can be done with a contrasting color of thread. (Design and arrange how ever you want!)

Repeat on each panel. I kept the back of the bird house one solid piece of patterned cotton. I chose not to embellish it since it is the back.

**When using embroidery thread you can thin it to give a more delicate look. I showed this in the second picture below. There are six small strands that make up one whole strand. I often thin it to three strands when stitching something small or tight.

**If you don’t know embroidery stitches very well I highly recommend the book in picture three. It has fantastic illustrations on how to do great embroidery. It is also separated in levels of easy, moderate, and difficult.IMG_0495.JPG

Using your pattern cut the top triangle for the front panel and the back piece.

Place the triangle piece on the top of the front panel and sew along the edge. This piece should be the same size as the back piece to keep things consistent.

Now choose a felt color that will be the inside of the bird house. Cut out squares according to your pattern to match each of the four sides of the bird house.

Cut out batting about ½ inch smaller on all sides than your felt pieces.

Place in a layer sandwich – felt, batting, sewn panel.

Using a piece of thread make a stitch in each of the square corners. For example, you will have four stitches on the two side panels and six on the front panel. I also put six random stitches on the back panel to keep it secure. Just eyeball where you think they should go. Doesn’t have to be exact.

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Once the front panel is sandwiched and stitched cut the batting and felt along the doorway.

Using a whip stitch edge the doorway. I go around once and turn back and repeat to make sure there is a clear edge with no fabric showing. This makes it look a little cleaner.IMG_0510.JPG

Turn two panels with the patterned sides facing each other. Pin together. (I have not pinned any of the pieces up until this point. I didn’t find it necessary, but you will want to use them in this step.) Using a sewing machine sew the pieces along one side leaving about a ¼ inch edge. The layers will make it thick but my sewing machine handled it fine.

Once your piece is sewn, unpin and repeat until you have all four pieces sewn together into a long line. Fold pieces onto each other and sew the last two edges together. Now you have the basic structure of the bird house – without a top or bottom.

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Cut out two squares of felt, according to your pattern, and a piece of batting smaller than the felt leaving about a ½ inch edge on all sides.

Sandwich layers – felt, batting, felt

Make a few stitches in the felt to secure all pieces together

Match one edge of the bottom piece to one bottom edge of the bird house and pin with enough room to sew.

On the sewing machine sew the pieces together leaving a ¼ inch edge.

This part gets a little tricky to explain but you will need to repeat with each edge of the bottom to secure it to the bird house. You will have to fold the pieces and keep pinning and turning to sew all around.

You won’t need to sew the doorway, but if you accidentally do, it won’t be a problem. Don’t get out the seam ripper!

If you want the inside to look more finished use a butcher stitch and edge all of the inside seams. This step is optional but gives a cleaner feel if you look inside the bird house.

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Turn the bird house right side out and you can now see the finished bottom.

Using a whip stitch edge the front step. You may need to reach your hand inside the bird house to make it easier to stitch. Again, I started with one line of stitches and went back over it to cover any felt

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Now it’s time to cut out the pieces for the roof and sew them on. This will be the most difficult part of the entire project. 

From your pattern (I just eyed this piece) cut the first roof piece from felt. Using a whip stitch – stitch the first layer of roof on. Don’t worry too much about how it looks at this point. It will be covered by the second layer of roof felt to finish it off anyway.

Place a scrap piece of batting on the top of the first layer of roof. Cut it just inside the stitched seams so it is slightly smaller than the roof piece. Stitch it in place so it won’t shift or move.

From your second roof pattern (mine is 7 inches wide by 11 inches long) cut out second roof piece from felt. If you want to embroider on the roof do it before you stitch it on the bird house. I stitched a line down the center so I could add my ‘v’ stitches symmetrically.

When the ‘v’ stitching is done make a small fold on one end and straight stitch along the fold. Turn it around and repeat the straight stitch filling in the missing lines. Repeat on the other end.

Place the finished second roof piece over the batting and start stitching underneath where the roof hangs over the sides of the bird house. Loop with the first roof stitching as to not have a ton of extra stitches showing. You will end up with a tidy roof this way!

Congratulations! You have a finished bird house!

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IMG_0530.JPGUsing a bird pattern cut out six pieces of felt to make the baby birds.

Using a wing pattern cut out three pieces of patterned fabric to make the bird wings.

On one piece of cut felt stitch on the wing with a whip stitch. Then make an eye with a french knot. Repeat with two more of the felt bird cut-outs.

Place a back layer on each of the birds and butcher stitch around the edges leaving a gap large enough to insert the batting and bell.

Making the birds rattle is optional. Just omit the bell if you want. Since I made this for a baby gift I found it suiting.

Roll a bell in a piece of batting and stuff the bird. Add more batting if you have empty space in the bird. Continue stitching the felt pieces until completely enclosed. Tie end of thread with a knot somewhere inconspicuous.

Repeat with remaining birds

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From http://www.instructables.com 🙂 Happy sewing!!!!!

10 quick ways to revamp your hairstyle in 10 mins

Having fabulous hair takes a lot of effort, in fact dragging yourself out of bed and into the shower to wash last night’s antics out of your hair, can feel like a mammoth task.

For those mornings when you have no time, will-power or hot water to make something out of your bed-head: here are 10 quick ways to fix your hair.

All you need is ten minutes and some bobby pins, and you’re boring old pony tail will enjoy a whole new, revamped look.

1. Fishtail braid

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2. Fringe braid

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Section off the hair to be braided in your fringe by creating a parting. You can start the parting on your left or right hand side, whichever you prefer.

The size of the parting depends on how big you want the braid to be and the style you want to achieve. You can also create a middle parting for added effect.

Once you have created a parting between the front section to be braided and the rest of your hair, check that the parting is even and brush the front section forward. Tie the rest of your hair into a ponytail.

Take the front section of hair and divide it into 3 separate and even strands as if you would when braiding/plaiting your hair in the back.

Continue to braid the three strands of hair across the front section of your hair until you get to your ears.

Source: Hair Romance and The Beauty Pot

3. Cut your fringe

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If you want a dramatic new look, all it takes is ten minutes of your time and a bit of courage.

When cutting your own fringe, always consider what’s being left behind and not what’s being cut off. Take small snips, you can always cut more.

Section off , and clip back the hair that you want to keep.

Usually, all the hair in front of your ears on the crown of your head is drawn forward for bangs, but this depends on how thick your hair is. If your hair isn’t thick enough then you will need to draw more hair from the back.

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Pull this fringe section into a point at the front of your head, then take your comb at about eyebrow height and comb the hair down until only a few millimetres are visible underneath the comb.

NEVER cut your fringe past the outer corners of your eyes. The farther you cut away from the centre of your face, the wider your face will appear.

Once you’ve made the cut, blow dry with a rounded brush for heavy, fuller bangs.

Source: Aging Hot Girl

4. Add waves with your straightener

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Separate your hair into workable layers. Take the first piece of hair and place it in the flat iron.

Pull straightener towards you, giving it a half-turn and glide it down until you reach the end of your hair, then release. (Hold the straightener horizontally to get more of beachy wave, vertically to get curls.)

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Finish the layer of hair you have down, then let the next layer you want to work with down from the clips and work through the rest of your hair.

When finished curling all of your hair, take a small amount of product and work it through your hair. If you want your hair to set for a long day or night out, you can spray through a bit of hairspray too.

Source: A Fashion Love Affair

5. DIY Headband

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A headband is a great way to hide greasy hair. If you don’t have one at the ready, and you’re feeling a bit crafy try out this DIY headband by Kelly Hicks.

Start by gathering materials needed: floral wire (available at any craft shop), fabric, and basic sewing tools.

Cut a strip of fabric wide enough to fold in half (can be as thick as you want) but make sure it’s long enough to go around your head once or twice with some extra on the ends. Fold right sides together and iron flat.

Sew together the long way. Attach a safety pin to one side but only through one side of the fabric. Then feed the pin through the tube to make it right-side out.

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Take your wire and bend one end into a loop. Feed the wire through the fabric tube.

This part is a little tricky because you want the wire loop to stay put at the ends. Hold the wire loop at the end while sewing the fabric shut and make sure you put stitches through the wire loop too. So now the ends of the wire will stay put. Then just repeat on the other end and you are done.

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Source: Kelly Hicks Design

6. Hair knot

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Ensure that your hair has enough texture for the hairstyle to hold, you can add texture with a bit of mousse before blow drying.

Using a comb divide the hair at the back down the centre hair line, beginning at the crown of the head and finishing at the nape of the neck.

Hold both sections of the hair part separately ensuring that you’re holding all strands of hair in your hands.

Tie a single knot in much the same way you’d tie any knot.

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To do this place one section of your parted hair over the other, loop that section though the created hole and pull the two parts tights.

This will give you a single hair knot, to achieve a double knot simply repeat the step again tying another knot.

Slightly twist for effect. Then put a bobby pin through the right hair part and the hair knot. Secure the knot by placing a bobby pin through the left hair part and the hair knot.

Source: Fashionising

7. Messy side ponytail

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This works best with unwashed hair.

Make a deep side part on one side of your hair.

Backcomb the top quarter of your hair – brush the hair downwards toward your scalp so it’s sort of frizzy and can stand on its own.

Gently brush the very top layer of your hair to make it smooth on the top. That way, all the back-combing will be hidden under the layer that you brushed. Still, don’t brush too much, you want it a little messy.

Take the entire back-combed section and pin it behind your head. To make it secure, place the bobby pins in an “X.”

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Take all your hair and put it in a low ponytail at the nape of your neck. Tighten the rubber band as tight as you can. This will help “push” your hair up, creating more volume at the top.

You can either leave the rubber band exposed, or hide it by taking a small half-inch section of hair from the ponytail and wrapping it around the rubber band. Take a small bobby pin and pin the hair to the rubber band.

Rough up the ponytail with your fingers to match the texture at the top of your hair. Use the same motion as you did to back comb, but use your fingers instead, since this will create a messy texture but will be softer and gentler than using a comb.

Source: Joanna Goddard

8. Braided crown

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You want to start by pulling the majority of your hair forward (in front of your face) from nearly the back of your hair line, as you want most of your hair to be toward the front of your head before you begin. Start on one side of the base of your neck and separate three strands of hair.

Begin braiding these three strands together. As you braid, follow along the crown of your head and add a little hair to each strand as you braid around.

Once you’ve braided around the front of your head finish the braid and use an elastic band to secure it. Pin the braid in place, tucking and pinning any loose pieces.

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If your hair is not long enough to braid all the way around your head you might consider adding hair accessories, such as bows or pins to where your braid ended, to sort of disguise any loose ends.

Source: abeautifulmess

9. Loose bun

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Source: seecreatures

10. Half-up do

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Grab a section of hair on your crown, pull it right back to the back of head. Where your fingers are holding your hair, insert the bobby pins horizontally.

Grab a section on the left side of your hair, cross over the two horizontal bobby pins and insert a vertical pin. Push it right underneath the section you have volumized. Do the same on the other side of your hair, again inserting the pin vertically.

With the remaining hair, repeat the process with another section of hair that falls in front of your ear – bring that around and fasten with a vertical pin. Repeat this on the other side.

Source: thesmallthingsblog

Make your own tent!! :)

DIY A-Frame Tent-A Beautiful Mess We love a-frame tents, so we invited Rubyellen to share her method for making your own. Are you excited? Here’s how the magic happens-A-Frame Tent SuppliesA-Frame Tent Supplies1. From the top of each moulding, measure and mark 6″ down with your pencil. 2. With your drill and 3/4″ spade bit, drill a hole at your mark. Try to center the hole on your moulding. These holes will be for the top of your A-frame tent. 3. From the opposite end of your moulding, measure and mark 1.5″ down with your pencil. 4. With your drill and 3/4″ spade bit, drill a hole at your mark. Try to center the hole on your moulding. These holes will be for the bottom of your A-frame tent. 

A-FRAME TENT DIMENSIONS

Making the cover: Since the cover is made using a vintage crocheted cloth, what you have readily available to use may be a different measurement. The key size to get your tent cover is about 44″ – 51″ in length and about 80″ – 84″ in width, so depending on the size of your crocheted cloth, your crocheted cloth to panel fabric proportion may vary from the one used. In fact, on our tent, the crocheted cover is slightly larger than the fabric panel by an inch or so on each side. If you have a crocheted cover large enough and don’t need a fabric panel, an option would be to fold the bottom of your crocheted cover to create a panel in which to feed your dowel through. Be creative, there are a lot of fun possibilities to use for a tent cover!
(Hint: A twin sized sheet fits this tent frame almost perfectly!)Tent Cover SuppliesTent Cover Supplies1. Cut the fabric to the size needed. In our case, it was 14″ x 53″. For the 14″ side, fold over 1/2″ and press, and fold over 1/2″ again and press. Pin in place. Repeat with the opposite side. Do this for both panels. Then, use a sewing machine to stitch the hem. With the 53″ side, place the right sides together and stitch using a 1/2″ seam. Repeat for second panel. Turn inside out and press. 2. Place the long side of crocheted cloth and fabric together with right sides together, pin in place, and stitch together using a 1/2″ seam. Repeat with second panel for the opposite side. 3. Group dowels into pairs and line up the top holes. Push dowel through the holes of the top moulding (6″ down from top). The hole should have a pretty tight grip and keep the dowel in place. Repeat with the dowels for the opposite end. Drape your tent cover on top. 4. Grab another dowel and push through the holes on the bottom of one side and feed through the bottom panel and connect the dowel to the opposite end. Repeat for second dowel on the opposite side. Open up the tent cover to desired width and height of opening. Grab a pillow, blanket, go underneath and enjoy!
TIPS: For a little extra detail and to keep the tent cover taut, I fed twine through some holes of the cover and tied it to the legs of the frame. This helps prevent the tent cover from sagging. Also, if you are using this on wood floors the legs may have a hard time staying up. I find that if you put your tent on top of a blanket it will help it from just falling flat.
Again, how you make this tent cover will vary depending on the size of the crocheted cover you find and decide to use. I just happen to come across a cover that was almost the exact size I needed, so I didn’t have to really piece together too much. Nevertheless, it will look beautiful with lots of little crocheted pieces put together or even with just one large piece as a cover. Just remember, have fun making it and after you will have a special little hideaway to enjoy! 
DIY A-Frame Tent (A Beautiful Mess) DIY A-Frame Tent (A Beautiful Mess)